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16gauge Flintlock.
#11
Thank you gentlemen,I will keep you posted.
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#12
Quote:I personally work from the lock outwards and shape the lock area to be wider at the  for end than the tail  this can be done by soldering a piece of 1/16 steel to the part of the lock where it joins the barrel  and file it down from 1/16 to nothing at the rear this will  kick the fore part of the lock out and  make the  wrist  less bulky giving it a more streamline look.It is best to have a picture of the finished job in your mind and before you cut away wood  make sure that A will go with B .
Good luck with the project
Feltwad

Thanks for that tip. Been wondering how it's done
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#13
[img][Image: 001-1.jpg][/img]
Cleaning up the Barrel after soldering the Rib and ramrod tubes together.Barrel ,Rib and Tubes Tinned, Fluxed and clamped together using Mole Grips then heated and extra Solder applied.
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#14
There are different methods of securing ribs ready for soldering I prefer to wire them this allows you to straighten
Feltwad
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#15
Yes I used wire for my last project (10 bore ).I had run out of soft iron wire so I add libbed a bit,It worked out OK.Finished cleaning it up this evening.I had a coil of lagging wire but used it on the garden over the years.I keep saying that each gun is my swan song but embark on yet another.
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#16
I still have to Make a Mainspring for the lock,then case harden all parts.it started out as  rough Lock Plate and Frizzen Castings,the other parts I have had to make.
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#17
[img][Image: 003-1.jpg][/img]
The cleaned up barrel prior to polishing.
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#18
[img][Image: 001-3.jpg][/img]
View from Hook Breach.
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#19
[img][Image: 002.jpg][/img]
A bit more progress.
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#20
[img][Image: 002-1.jpg][/img]

Shapeing around the Lockplate and Breach Tang.
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