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16gauge Flintlock.
Thank you gentlemen,I will keep you posted.
Quote:I personally work from the lock outwards and shape the lock area to be wider at the  for end than the tail  this can be done by soldering a piece of 1/16 steel to the part of the lock where it joins the barrel  and file it down from 1/16 to nothing at the rear this will  kick the fore part of the lock out and  make the  wrist  less bulky giving it a more streamline look.It is best to have a picture of the finished job in your mind and before you cut away wood  make sure that A will go with B .
Good luck with the project

Thanks for that tip. Been wondering how it's done
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Cleaning up the Barrel after soldering the Rib and ramrod tubes together.Barrel ,Rib and Tubes Tinned, Fluxed and clamped together using Mole Grips then heated and extra Solder applied.
There are different methods of securing ribs ready for soldering I prefer to wire them this allows you to straighten
Yes I used wire for my last project (10 bore ).I had run out of soft iron wire so I add libbed a bit,It worked out OK.Finished cleaning it up this evening.I had a coil of lagging wire but used it on the garden over the years.I keep saying that each gun is my swan song but embark on yet another.
I still have to Make a Mainspring for the lock,then case harden all started out as  rough Lock Plate and Frizzen Castings,the other parts I have had to make.
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The cleaned up barrel prior to polishing.
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View from Hook Breach.
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A bit more progress.
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Shapeing around the Lockplate and Breach Tang.

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