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16gauge Flintlock.
[img][Image: 014.jpg][/img]

Building myself a 16 Bore Flintlock Shotgun,quite a lot of work to do but thought it might be of interest to those who potter about like me.
[img][Image: 018.jpg][/img]

Another view,Rib not yet soldered on to Barrel, just drilled the Ramrod hole.Lots of timber to remove.
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Another view.
The Barrel is made from Solid Drawn Steel Tube.The furniture from Mild Steel Plate.I will use a piece of Horn at the Forend with a set back ramrod entry tube plus two tubes along the Rib.The Ramrod is Hazel Wood.
Waiting to see  the finished product with great interest.
W. S. (Bill) Curtis
Hello Bill,they never look like much at this stage.I had shelved it but now winter aproaches my enthusiasm has returned.At my age (76) I pace myself both physicaly and mentaly.Incidentaly you mentioned the late Ivan Barby in one of your posts,I remember him well I once was privelaged to see his wonderfull gun collection .I still go down to Kirby Bellars near Melton Mowbray for a bit of Clay Shooting but it has gone all modern a few of us still bring out the old guns and take precedence when in line.
An interesting project ,I also am looking forwad to the finished job,better still  lets have images of its progress
What type of wood for the stock and will you stick to the original of two wedges ?
Hello Feltwad,the Timber is walnut,very plain but sound.Perhaps you could give me some advise regarding one or two wedges.Under pressure now when two distinguished gents are showing interest in my project.I will take Photos as she progresses.
Ivan Barby was the finest barrel browner that I have ever known. He was a great loss. I think his health was damaged by the shock he had when his son was severely injured in a road accident and lost an eye.  He was never the same afterwards.
W. S. (Bill) Curtis
Do not feel under pressure we are not here to criticize  but too help it is good to see muzzle loading enthusiasts tackling a building job .Has too the wedges it mostly depends on the length of barrel from the breech plug to the baluster turn ,if it has a standard length then one will do but if longer it is better going for two, long for-ends with only one are prone too warping but be careful because there is not much wood  on the one near the for end
I personally work from the lock outwards and shape the lock area to be wider at the  for end than the tail  this can be done by soldering a piece of 1/16 steel to the part of the lock where it joins the barrel  and file it down from 1/16 to nothing at the rear this will  kick the fore part of the lock out and  make the  wrist  less bulky giving it a more streamline look.It is best to have a picture of the finished job in your mind and before you cut away wood  make sure that A will go with B .
Good luck with the project

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