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Restoration Saving Our Heritage
It is the poor type of muzzle loading guns rifle and pistol that need restoration.Most are covered in rust and grime after ex number of years in lofts, barns and sheds resulting in a large number broken up for spares which I consider is wrong and no matter what condition they are still part of our gun heritage and need restoration
One such example came my way a week or so age  which I will restore enclosed are images before work is started
[Image: 100_0691_zps451d22ad.jpg]
[Image: 100_0692_zps72a6e352.jpg]
[Image: 100_0688_zps9f708fd5.jpg]
A nice project there to get you teeth into.I agree many Guns are scrapped that could be carefully restored.
I agree. I have restored some real Blacksmith quality pistols, on the grounds that even though rubbish quality, they were bought by people at the time for home and self protection, so represent examples of what the man in the street possessed. We shouldn't just be looking at the Manton's.
Feltwad.......It would be of interest a few of us if you would go into some detail on how you restore the metal and wood. You never knows when a "diamond in the rough" might come your way. Correct restoration techniques would be good to know.  Cheers   Paul

Always remember with any restoration never take it too far ,a gun which is over 150 years old when finished should look  its age not like some thing just of the shelf so if in any doubt leave it be..
First on receiving a rusty gun always check to see if there is a charge left in the barrel,it may have been there for over 100 years but if any heat is directed to the barrel can cause it too ignite with nasty results. If this is clear take some rust penetration and apply to all metal parts mostley screw heads  but not the barrels , leave for a couple of days for this too take affect before starting to dismantle.
More too follow later
For starters, how do you "break free" the top tang screw without boogering up the screw slot? Do you deepen the slot in the screw head a little after you get it out? It looks pretty shallow and really rusted in. For what it's worth, over here, a mixture of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone has gained a reputation as an excellent penetrating mixture for frozen/rusted-in parts....but I'd hesitate to use it around any wood that has a finish on it. It's good for submerging entire gun locks or pouring a couple of ounces down a barrel with a frozen in nipple. [plug the nipple hole with a toothpick first]  cheers  Paul
For cleaning out the screw slot I use a shaped old hack saw blade {see image}. Using the proper size turnscrew the ones with the flat sides so they can fit into the jaws of a wrench for extra leverage are the best  When the metal parts are dismantled spray with a penertration oil mostly on the internal part of the locks and put aside. Next is the stock if the the original patina is still there just rmove the dirt and grime and coat with a stock finish. If a stock has lost its patina {see image}take it back to the wood and start a oil finish, this will take many applications always burlap off before the next coat  it will take many weeks and sometimes months to obtain a good finish
More to follow

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